Hair 101

Know your hair.
Pick the right product.

The honest guide our barbers wish their clients read first. Figure out your type, texture and porosity, then match it to the one product that actually solves your problem. No fluff.

Step 1

Find your type

Everyone sits in one of these four. Look at your hair when it's just air-dried after a wash, no product.

Smooth and shiny with no visible wave. Scalp oils travel down the shaft fast, so roots get greasy sooner than the rest of us.

  • Wash every 2-3 days with a balancing shampoo
  • Mousses, sprays, sea-salt — anything lightweight
  • Skip heavy creams and oils near the roots
Avoid: Heavy waxes, butters, leave-ins on the scalp

Natural S-bend from roots to ends. Volume comes easy — frizz comes easier, especially in humid weather.

  • Sea-salt spray or light mousse enhances the wave
  • Leave-in conditioner on damp hair tames frizz
  • Air-dry or diffuse on low heat
Avoid: Over-brushing when dry (breaks the wave pattern)

Defined ringlets or spirals. High on volume, chronically thirsty — moisture is the whole game.

  • Sulfate-free shampoo, co-wash between shampoos
  • Leave-in + a curl cream or gel on soaking-wet hair
  • Scrunch, don't rub. Use a microfibre towel or cotton T-shirt
Avoid: Sulfate shampoos, alcohol-heavy gels, cotton pillowcases

Tight coils or zigzag strands. The driest type by default — and the one that gives you the most creative range.

  • Deep-condition weekly, co-wash often
  • Heavy butters, oils, and leave-in creams lock in moisture
  • Silk/satin bonnet or pillowcase at night — non-negotiable
Avoid: Daily shampooing, anything with sulfates or drying alcohols
Step 2

Texture + porosity

Your type tells you the shape. These two tell you how the product behaves once it's in.

Strand texture
How thick a single hair feels between your fingers
FineDelicate strands, gets oily fast.
Mousses, sprays, powders — nothing heavy
MediumThe forgiving default.
Most products work. Start with a pea-sized amount
CoarseStrong, springy, frizz-prone.
Heavy creams, butters and oils tame it down
Porosity
How your hair drinks moisture — the float test below is easy
Low porosity
Hair resists water — products sit on top, take forever to dry.
Apply to DAMP (not soaking) hair. A warm towel or diffuser on low heat helps absorption.
Medium porosity
Absorbs moisture evenly, holds styles well. The easy mode.
Most products work. Weekly deep-condition keeps it balanced.
High porosity
Soaks up product instantly but loses moisture just as fast.
Heavy oils (argan, castor) and butters to seal moisture in. Leave-in every wash day.
Float test
Drop a clean strand in a glass of water. Floats = low porosity. Sinks slowly = medium. Sinks fast = high.
Step 3

The essentials

Before any styling product, these five build the foundation. Skip them and nothing on top works properly.

Shampoo

Removes oil, sweat and product build-up.

  • Dry hair: Sulfate-free, moisturising
  • Oily hair: Balancing or clarifying
  • Dandruff: Ketoconazole or zinc pyrithione

Conditioner

Hydrates and seals the cuticle after shampoo.

How: Mid-lengths to ends only. Never on the scalp — that's what shampoo is for.

Leave-in conditioner

All-day softness and frizz control. Base layer for styling.

How: Apply to damp hair after towel-drying. Essential for curls and high-porosity hair.

Heat protectant

Non-negotiable before any hot tool. Cuts heat damage by up to 50%.

How: Spray or cream on damp hair, distribute with a wide-tooth comb, THEN blow-dry.

Hair oil

Seals in moisture, adds shine, tames flyaways.

How: Argan / jojoba for daily finish. Coconut for pre-shower mask (30 min, then wash out).
Step 4

Styling: hold × shine

Every styling product lands somewhere on these two axes. Find your desired finish and work back to the form.

Clay

Hold
Shine

Best for: Everyday messy textures. Adds grip to fine hair without the shine.

Pea-sized amount, emulsify in warm palms until it disappears, work from roots to tips.

Pomade

Hold
Shine

Best for: Slick-backs, side parts, 1920s-barber looks. Sharp and controlled.

Dime-sized in dry or damp hair. Comb through to sculpt.

Wax

Hold
Shine

Best for: Natural shine with flexible hold you can restyle through the day.

Warm between palms 10 seconds — it should turn clear — then apply to mostly-dry hair.

Cream

Hold
Shine

Best for: Long, flowy styles. Keeps hair soft, touchable and frizz-free.

Hazelnut-sized amount on damp hair. Air-dry or blow-dry for movement.

Gel

Hold
Shine

Best for: Spiky looks, sharp edges, set-and-forget. Dries hard — can feel crunchy.

On wet hair only. Scrunch (for curls) or comb (for slicks), then don't touch until dry.

Sea salt spray

Hold
Shine

Best for: Beachy, gritty, undone texture. Volume for flat hair.

5-8 sprays on damp hair, scrunch from the ends upward, air-dry.

Texture powder

Hold
Shine

Best for: Instant root volume for fine hair. Lift for flat fringes.

Sprinkle at the roots, rub in with fingertips. Less is MUCH more.

Mousse

Hold
Shine

Best for: Lightweight volume and curl definition without weighing hair down.

Tennis-ball-sized foam into damp hair, scrunch or comb through, diffuse or air-dry.
Step 5

Pro application tips

Six habits that separate 'looks-styled' from 'looks-like-you-tried'.

Emulsify first

Rub product between your palms until it turns clear / warm / vanishes into your skin. Unemulsified product clumps and coats unevenly.

Less is more

Start with a pea-sized finger-scoop. You can always add. You can't take it back without washing.

Roots to tips

Work product in from the roots out — not just the surface. Roots are where hold comes from.

Check for "Aqua"

Water-based products (Aqua is the first ingredient) wash out easily. Oil- or wax-based ones need a clarifying shampoo now and then.

Detangle dry, style wet

Wide-tooth comb or soft brush when hair is dry. Gel, mousse, sea-salt — all go on wet or damp hair for the best result.

Match the day

Humid? Lighter product, matte finish, less shine. Dry air? Go heavier, add oil. Sweating at the gym? Skip gel — it flakes.

Not sure yet?

Describe your hair.
Chad picks the product.

One sentence — type, goal, anything. He narrows our 90+ catalogue to the one that fits you. EN / DE / FR / IT all work.